A day in traditional Frankfurt


It was already in 794, in the Holy Roman Empire, when Frankfurt begins to take importance. Its influence would flourish in the 11th century, bringing together the first business fairs and it did not stop until the 20th century. But as in every history of Germany worth its salt, the great World Wars arrived, and of the bombings of 1944, only 20% of the city remained standing.

Perhaps it is precisely this fact that gives much more merit today to a city of contrasts, a city that mixes skyscrapers and facades, that we would see yesterday DAY 1, with the cider or the famous sausages, the urban with the rustic, the modern with the traditional, the meadows and bridges of the banks of the Main with the money and the silhouettes of the great buildings of the financial center. And all this in one of the greenest cities in Europe, between parks and really impressive green belts, which really gives us some thought.

We don't get up very early, since our Fair opens at 9:00. Again we enter Messe pavilions between garlands, lamps, lighting and Christmas decoration, which we are not going to talk too much. The Christmasworld is a really spectacular fair that has nothing to envy to the Canton Fair that we enjoyed DAY 3 of last April at trip to Guangzhou, Hong Kong and Macao 2011.


Around 12'00, already with the work done, it is time to take that more traditional route that will take us to Dom / Romer, taking the U4. The visits we have made are more or less like this:

The first thing that catches our attention once we get to the surface cannot be anything other than St. Bartholomew's Cathedral (Frankfurt Cathedral) It is visible from almost the entire city with its 95 meters high. It seems that its beginnings date back to the year 852 although it never became an episcopal church and was one of the few structures that remained standing after the bombings. Inside we are struck by its impressive organ that reminds us a lot of what we saw at the Church of St. Mary Redclife during our visit to Bristol in the Getaway to Stonehenge, Bath and Bristol 2011

On the way to Altstadt we came across the Hitorischer Garten, a historic garden with a kind of excavation of Roman remains and the Carolingian royal palace that does not have much more to do. Paula, is it cold today huh? We are at -2ºC

He Romerberg is the historic center of Frankfurt, the only one that endured the bombings of World War II and that today it retains centuries-old and picturesque buildings, of old brick and a very peculiar architecture that contrasts with the crital and the large moles of stone and aluminum of the financial sector.

Here you are the Town Hall or Romer, also old, formed by three curious recreated houses of the 15th century.


We are surprised to see, and we have not commented yet, two contrasts. The first is to see a lot of police in practically every corner of the city. The second, that we are encountering dozens of vagrants, people asking and poor people in many other corners of our walk. The crisis affects even the most powerful countries.

At the opposite end of the Romer, and following in the possibly prettiest area of ​​the city, we can observe 3 old patrician houses whose gothic facade leaves its touch in this square, where in the center we can also observe the Gerechtigkeitsbrunnen (go with the little name) or source of Justice. Right next door is also the Church of San Nicolás dating from 1290 and that was until the fourteenth century imperial chapel.

Let's stop rolls and dates ... !! Comeeeeeeeeeeer without skimping !! (that already at home they will touch bread soups). Going down to the river, we find one of the most picturesque taverns in all of Frankfurt, the Haus Wertheym.

We are in one of those absolutely picturesque German houses, with pointed and wooden ceilings, jugs and posters on all sides, curious lanterns and, of course, typical local food and lots of beer; all governed by two old men who give off a lot of sympathy. Excellent food, today they touched two other typical soups, a chicken with a strange but rich yellow sauce and a veal in a green herbs sauce also exquisite. All this and some beers for 44,40 EUR

Before crossing to the other side of the river, we return north towards Haupwache where we were yesterday, to reach a very particular square that houses the headquarters of the German National Assembly, the Paulskirche or St. Paul's Church. It is curious to observe how both the building and a small walkway and adjacent small bridge are built with a kind of red sandstone and brick that has not abandoned us throughout the day.

Yes to the population of Salzburg you ask for his historical character, no doubt they will tell you Mozart. If you do the same in Prague they will tell you about Kafka... and in Frankfurt? Almost by chance we found the Goethe Haus wave Johann Wolfgang von Goethe's house, writer-scientist-playwright of local birth who will be considered one of the founders of romanticism, and that we will talk a little more later.

Now if, after buying some gifts (7.95 EUR) and having a hot coffee in a Starbuck (5 EUR), we have to cross the Main, the main river of the city, and we will do this walking through a very appreciated bridge for the locals, the Eiserner Steg or Iron Bridge, a bridge built in steel currently pedestrian. But how much steel does this city have in its structures?

The reason to go to this other shore is to meet the lively Sachsenhausen area, one of the districts of Frankfurt that has undergone less modifications since its antiquity and that today houses one of the streets with more nightlife in the city.

The picturesque taverns in the area really are apfelweinkneipen or cider houses of typical German food and freshly prepared cider. The most famous seems to be the Wagner and the Zum Gemalten.

We are not going to stay until night, since we would not have much to do in the area and it is not even 18'00. The city (except for a zoo, museums and botanical gardens) is not enough, and we have finished this little walk through traditional Frankfurt. Paula, are we going to rest a little at the hotel?

Said and done, we take another S-Bahn around the area and we get back to the Central Station and from there to the Intercity Frankfurt Hotel (ALL THE ACCOMMODATION INFORMATION HERE). The catalogs of the fair already begin to weigh and it is a good time to leave everything and give us a break.

¿Where do we have dinner today? Mmm ... Yesterday passing through the financial district and almost next to the Opera Square we saw a Japanese of the typical with his central table of dishes in a tape that moves and of those that we love. Tonight there will be no sausages or knuckle. Here we go…

We love Japanese food, and in A Coruña we don't have this kind of place, so we have to take advantage of it when we take the chicken for a walk in these big cities, haha. For 42.60 EUR we emptied the tape

A new little walk and another S-Bahn returns us to sleep, since tomorrow we will get up early to try to visit what everyone says is one of the most beautiful towns in Europe, Heidelberg.

Do you believe in coincidences? Paula owes books. In fact, on the return plane, "The yellow eyes of the crocodiles" by Katherine Pancol is over. Among all those who have pending do you know which has been INTENTIONALLY brought to Frankfurt? "The Misadventures of Young Werther" by ... Johann Wolfgang Von Goethe. !! We didn't believe it when I was taking it out as we wrote this little story before bedtime.

First conclusions of the city? The truth is that it is not a city "that excites". For a walk of a day or two half days it can be curious, but many parts of the city are under construction, others are really ugly and except for these few visits and some museums for those who have more time and likes (Frankfurt is a City of Museums par excellence) does not give for much more.

As well says Mª Mercé de Mil Camins (blog that we highly recommend) in one of his comments, one of those cities that if it coincides in passing (or Fair as our case) if it is worth visiting but it can be left for when we are "old men".

Now yes, it's time to take advantage of these fluffy pillows to try to rest a few hours. More tomorrow…

Paula and Isaac, from Frankfurt (Germany)