The Chullpas of Sillustani


We are about to get into bed. Today was possibly the toughest day of the trip, especially for kilometers made. Peru is light years from Europe in transport, communications, building, urban planning, ... It is a country that seems stagnant in the past, but it is perhaps that, its virginity and authenticity as soon as you leave the established routes, which makes two Travelers like us begin to be in love with Peru.

Madrugón, which begins to be habitual, and that puts us at 6 in the morning outside the hotel El Yanque road, what was formerly the nerve center of a Valley where the Incas not only did not invade but also reached agreements with the natives of the place.

There we can see the Dawn of the volcanoes, traditional dances and a topic that seems very interesting to us, the subject of religion. The Catholicism of Peru is not like what it may be in Brazil or other South American countries. Here to subdue the natives, worshipers of the sun gods and volcanoes, it was necessary to allow a series of concessions that made current Catholicism is a kind of synchronism between both cultures. Curious at least.

As it happened yesterday, we are going through a trail of sand and earth, bordering the left bank of a large, increasingly deep canyon. Starting from Piracucho is an area of ​​what was the Cabanas tribe.

Our destination is to reach one of the most famous sightings in the world of Condores in its natural state, the Viewpoint of La Cruz del Condor.

He Condor is a bird that only plans. We arrived shortly before 8 and the sun begins to evaporate the waters of the river, raising hot air currents that allow the elevation and dance of these animals. We can even observe the mating dance of a male and a female, which consists in the repetition of the male (or at least tries) of all the movements of the female.

It is an admirable natural spectacle, especially when there are already 7 or 8 who fly by our side, a couple of males of considerable size. And it seems that they can get to measure up to 3 meters wide. Amazing bird! Later we would see a "kestrel" (which we still do not know because in Spain it is an insult) that is a ridiculously small bird that is capable of knocking down a condor and an eagle for its agility and hunting with a 98% success.

Back to Chivay, after buying cookies (9 PEN) we continue to observe the beautiful Valley. In front of Madrigal, a town of Hispanic name because it was these who founded it to obtain gold and copper from nearby mines, we can observe hanging graves where the natives buried themselves in a fetal position to be closer to heaven.

We can also continue observing the terrace technique. !!! How well thought out !!! 100% use of water and distributed by product needs

Keys Peru calling Keys Morocco back ... One of bugs. Let's see Mr. Juve, let's learn. !! This is an Alpaca! And this is a goal 2 (after goal 1: eat a guinea pig): eat an alpaca! Hahaha. The next trip I want to see you eating your bugs eh ...

Alpaca in meatloaf, sauteed alpaca, alpaca in pork rinds, alpaca in loin, alpaca in skewer

!!! I DARE YOU !!! LOL

After lunch in Chivay (61 PEN), we have many km left for our next destination, since we have set ourselves the goal of sleeping in Puno, next to Lake Titicaca already. Along the way we pass by Laguna Lagunillas, at more than 4,000 m of altitude and with dimensions of 18.6 km long and 5.8 km wide. In addition with four small islands.

The pity of all this is that it is no longer what it was, and all this place is now drying up and who knows, maybe our great grandchildren are no longer able to see anything we saw. Here they arrive today to flamingos from the North looking for the heats of summer.

On the way to our next destination we pass through the city of Juliaca, a city of winds to be at the top of an antiplane. It is a population smuggled with Bolivia. Here the majority of myths and legends of witchcraft of Peru are developed (also for that reason there are so many films shot here).

Although our final destination is the Sillustani chullpas, which in the language of the area, Aymara, is translated as "nail form".

We are in one of the largest necropolis in the world, a large archaeological complex in which a multitude of "chullpas" (stone turrets) built by collas and Incas stand out, to bury their dead, enduring the passing of time. We are at 3,900 m.

In the background, the Umayo lagoon. On its slopes, true colossi of stones that the collas chose as their greatest work and on more than 90 occasions. They are strange mausoleums not seen before and of undecipherable age that seems to be dated from S.X.

Curious is also to see an island in the middle of the lagoon where they live! Wild vicuñas !!! Unable to get out of there and fed by grass. Another curiosity is the Chulpa del Lagarto, one of the most impressive.

At least the vicunas are more docile than the Llamas and Alpacas ...! PUAAAAAAAG !!! In the hour we talk ... often spit, hahaha

It is a visit that is not usually very touristy, but that any traveler should consider. One of the most wonderful funeral passages with the Umayo lake next door and with the afternoon falling.

In this ratillo, before going to bed, we take the opportunity to put these pictures, and above all, to tell family and friends, that we are fine even if we have not given signs of life in recent days. The head and the soroche well, without problem, and the perfect stomach. Perhaps the worst is the dream, but you already know that we have the keyway keys… take advantage of the last minute of the trip, hehe

A big hug for everyone, and ... tomorrow more from Peru and Lake Titicaca in which we are newcomers and dinner (38 PEN).

Paula and Isaac, from Puno (Peru)

TRAVEL EXPENSES: 108 PEN (approx. 29.67 EUROS)