The archaeological complex of Raqchi


It all started when the sun, seeing the painful state of men, created a pair of the foams of Lake Titikaka. His name Manco Capac, the male, and Mama Ocllo, his wife. He placed a golden scepter and ordered them to go around the world to civilize the settlers. He commissioned them to found a kingdom, and implant the cult of the sun. They would know what the place chosen for the foundation of their Empire was when the cane sank until it disappeared. So, they left for the North ...

... just like Isaac and Paula, that after breakfast, not later than 7'00, we headed to the bus station from where the public bus that connects Puno and Cuzco leaves making several very interesting stops (by the way, worth saying that in Peru we have found great punctuality of all the services). Are 389 Km those who separate us.

Already en route, we go back to Juliaca and to be able to see better the "taxi-choclos", a kind of tricycles used to transport people considered an ecological transport (there are more than 40,000 units already only in Juliaca). We also see more miser neighborhoods again. What a pity!

Our first big stop is at 9:30 and it is at PucaraBefore we turn the bus, we already see the terraces of its great archaeological complex under the high rocky mountains. These, unlike the Incas, were not crops.

We go directly to the Plaza de Armas and the museum, which becomes a more than interesting visit. There is a chronology of cultures that allows us to relate all the cultures that inhabited Peru. The views of Lima, Paracas, Ica-Chincha, Qollas, Cabanas, Uros ... are joined by the Moche, Huani, Chavin and a very particular and VERY important, the PUCARA.

La Pucara was a warrior and expansionist culture born in 2000 BC. and that made human sacrifices. Its main figure is Hakun Ñakac, discovered in front of the terraces at the end of the 20th century, constituting a milestone, since we were facing a new culture represented by an individual with a trophy head in his hand and a knife in the other. The terraces still remain in great condition.

Is the beginning of the Incas, since in the year 1,000, when Manco Capac founded the Empire and until the year 1,400, he acquired and absorbed all the cultures we have seen so far, either by transmission or by invasion. No civilization in the world could absorb so much wealth together so quickly, and especially one, from the Pucara, from which in 1,400 Puchamacac, the most famous Inca character, would take on expansionism and create an Empire, although not as cruel as the Pucara. Or at least so far it was believed so, because in 1995 the Mummy Juanita discovered in the mountains and exposed in Arequipa (where we were the DAY 5 of the trip), lets see now the opposite. The great empire would last only until 1532, date of the arrival of Francisco Pizarro, but that ... is another story. The Church of the Plaza de Armas, is also in very good condition

Here are also the "Toritos de Pucara", for the welfare of houses and luck, formerly for fertility in the form of a flame (Inca empire). We get two (4 PEN)

We set course, now if, towards the boundary between the department of Puno and the new department of Cuzco, in what is the highest point of the trip, at more than 4,300 m high. The place is called "The line"

In the background we can observe the Chimboya volcano, of altitude greater than 5,500 m, the only one left with perpetual snow in an area that not too long ago or was (but global warming is wreaking havoc). This volcano is important because it is what allows the birth of the Vilcanota river, sacred river of the Incas, which flows after passing through several names, in the Amazon River

The rest of the place, with beautiful views, is still a walking stall with all kinds of textiles and ceramics for tourists. We only water (2 PEN)

Hunger squeezes, and the public / tourist bus includes a meal at a roadside buffet-inn. We enter the town of San Pedro, near Sicuani and there in a quite cozy place. But as not everything can be perfect, the buffet is bad and scarce so we make heart guts, we ask for a drink (5 PEN) and we finish quickly to be able to "play" a little with the flames of the place and buy some gift (8 PEN). What about you laughing huh?

But without a doubt, the star visit of the day is the Raqchi archaeological complex (whose meaning is "ceramic")

It contains the remains of the largest temple ever created in the Inca Empire in honor of the god Viracocha, and more remains than was a true citadel.

Currently there is only the 12-meter central wall of what was an impressive temple besides the base of the colonnades. A pity It seems to have been something spectacular in its time.

Touring the complex we see the same qolcas that serve as storage that we saw before, as well as the remains of the walls that still remain of protection of the citadel. In addition, buildings are designed to millimeters, thinking about the different positions of the sun in each season of the year. They were geniuses!

It is important to note that here there is also an Inca Trail, there really is from Tuculman in Argentina to Colombia, more than 40,000 km of Inca roads. They got a whole network of roads, and not only the famous and famous Macchu Pichu. We say goodbye to the archaeological center

Curiosity of the day, the square has a Church of Our Lady of the Rosary ... !! Like Coruña! We got another little gift (5 PEN)

Without leaving the places that Manco and Mama stepped on, we followed the banks of the Sacred River of the Incas, leaving behind the arid lands of the Puno antiplane, reaching a much more fertile land while we continue to see doctrines of !! NO TO ANALPHABETISM !! !! NO TO WATER PRIVATIZATION !!

The last stop of our journey takes us to the Andahuaylillas city, which is quickly identified as a colonial city by its cobbled floor and its beautiful balconies.

Here is a true Sistine Chapel de las Americas (far from what we saw on DAY 2 in Lima), in a church founded on the bases of the huaca of an Inca by the Jesuits in 1626 in adobe and plaster. Inside they are not allowed to take photos but it is a gem. Initially, murals of all kinds of paintings were made on the plaster walls. Later, with the expulsion of the Jesuits, the Dominicans who created oils of the life of St. Peter took the Church. We can also see two organs dated from 1610 (with the first ones from South America). But without a doubt, the most valuable piece of the church is that created by Esteban Murillo and is the Immaculate Conception of the Pulpit. The rest is cuzqueño art. The ceiling is Mudejar art and the Andean baroque altar (with mirrors to reflect the sun, turning to see the Catholic + Andean synchronism already spoken on other days of travel). The photo is not ours, it is taken from Google Images.

Now if we take the bus to arrive in Cuzco before passing through an Inca checkpoint and remains of the pre-Inca Huani culture, in what has been an exciting day of review of the origins of Inca history

"The days passed without the golden cane sinking into the ground until one morning, upon reaching a beautiful valley surrounded by majestic mountains, the golden cane sank sweetly on the ground. It was there that Cuzco had to be built, the "navel of the world", the capital of the Empire of the Sun ".!! WE ARE IN CUZCO !!!

We have taken the previous photos from our hotel, the Hotel Del Prado Inn (ARTICLE IN CHAVETAS WITH ALL THE DETAILS HERE), where we stayed, right next to the Plaza de Armas, a great choice. Further, !!! WE HAVE BEEN GIVEN A SUITE WITH hydromassage bathtub and all !! What a joy !!! (we took the cheapest standard "in theory")

We go down to change money, since today is the "Ecuador of the trip" and it shows that the dollar has won against the Euro these days, which benefits us on this occasion (we bring all dollars changed to 1.30 months ago), and we have changed to 2.83. From there we go to dinner at a Pizzeria (48.50 PEN). Enough of Peruvian food. We need to change. And another water for the night (3 PEN)

Family, friends, we are perfectly. Tomorrow we enter the Sacred Valley, already very close to Machu Picchu and possibly we are 2 or 3 days without internet, so do not worry if we do not write.

Now awaits us this whirlpool, almost full. But that's another story, which we are NOT going to tell you, hehe ...

Paula and Isaac, from Cuzco (Peru)

TRAVEL EXPENSES: 58.50 PEN (approx 16.07 EUROS) and GIFTS: 17 PEN -approx 4.67 EUROS-