We enter one of the most mysterious areas of Spain, with huge steep cliffs that have nothing to do with the placid coasts seen in As Rías Baixas. Multiple shipwrecks were to blame for the birth of the lighthouses by the Phoenicians, including the foundations of the spectacular Torre de Hercules (of later Roman construction) that we will talk about one of these days.
To those who are fascinated by the stories of shipwrecks and sailors, we recommend visiting the article about A Costa Da Morte from the Avelino Blog where we took the previous photo.
Today we have not risen early (after seeing the weather). They accompany us on the getaway Jose and RaquelWith whom we will surely make the first of many future trips together because it is a pleasure to share any time with them. They are also "ours" (what to eat today? Hehehe). Our first objective of the trip is another summer party: The Baldaio Cockle Feast, thus beginning our particular route along such a picturesque Galician coast.
The area of Razo and Baldaio is about 7 km from the northern part of the Municipality of Carballo and is one of the most interesting natural places on the Galician coast, both from the landscape point of view and from the geological, botanical point of view and faunistic.
Baldaio It is located in the middle of the marsh area, with one of the dune and lagoon beaches most reviewed in the guides. Inland, everything is ready to receive the "eaters" that, like us, have approached to taste some good cockles ... !!! VERMOUTH TIME !!!
The "berbena" is encouraged and it is around 14'00 when the cockles start to come out, in sauce or steamed? Yummmmmm
!! Fill more! !! Fill more! There we ate for less than € 35 the four, cockles, empanada, bread and bottle of white wine included.
On the way to our goal of the day, Malpica, we also make a small stop at Razo, where an extensive sandy beach welcomes us and we can even find a curious geological phenomenon, a fossil beach, from where to start observing the spectacular cliffs hit by the sea characteristic of this part of Galicia. However, we come from the gastronomic route, so a "good dessert" for cockles could not be missed.
IDEAS FOR FUTURE TRAVELERS: Galicia has many gastronomic parties throughout the year. To the already commented Seafood Festival in O Grove in October in the article of As Rías Baixas and this Feast of Cockles in Baldaio in August, we should add other highlights such as:
- The Cooked Party in Lalín at Carnival
- The Galician Cheese Festival in Arzúa in March
- The Ribera Sacra Wine Festival in Chantada in March or April
- The Oyster Party at Arcade in April
- The Clam Festival in Carril in July
- The Octopus Festival in Ribadeo in July and Carballiño in August
- The Percebe Party in Corme in July
- The Padron Peppers Festival in August
- The Albariño Wine Festival in Cambados in August
- The Feast of the Razor in Finisterre in August
- The Fiesta del Mejillon on Arousa Island in August
- The Scallop Festival in Bueu in October
- The Roasted Chestnuts Festival in Ourense in November
Malpica It is one of the icons of A Costa Da Morte. A town that lives by and for the sea. On the one hand, with its picturesque port (where today are parties and tonight will play Luar Na Lubre) surrounded by all kinds of old seafaring houses and one of the most famous fish markets in Galicia
On the other hand, the Playa Mayor and the Paseo, where today a thick fog has fallen, worthy of the best films of navigators and shipwrecks that every grandfather of the place would have in a very unique way.
We can not leave the opportunity to take advantage of our particular "piscolabis" and try the "mojito of Malpica" (which must be said, leave a little to be desired), !! YES, VALE VALE !! We are Jose and Isaac those of the mojito, and what? While they give you buy, give buy ... ainsss
But after a little enjoyment of the place, our adventure passed through an old house of more than 200 years ago, as its "presentation", restored between 2007 and 2009, in a beautiful environment and abundant vegetation in the heart of A Costa Da Morte
We talk about Gloria House, a few kilometers inland from Malpica in Ardeleiro, run by Gloria herself and where to enjoy a different lodging (70 EUROS per couple).
For future travelers, and with the sincerity that characterizes us, it is a place that must be given time, since both Gloria herself and who can help her (we did not see anyone) have much to learn from the hospitality business despite to have enviable facilities and a garden that in good weather would have to take advantage of it.
The interior shows that it is newly renovated and with everything IMPECCABLE. The rooms are also modernly decorated and perfectly clean.
But returning to the real reason we are here, and within our Gastronomic Route, today we will end the day in one of the best restaurants that the Galician Community presumes, in the As Garzas Shelter.
IDEAS FOR FUTURE TRAVELERS: In Galicia there are several restaurants that stand out above the average. While in the future we dedicate a story to them, we could name the Retiro da Costiña Restaurant in Santa Comba, the Casa Solla Restaurant in Poio, The Taberna de Rotilio in Sansenxo, the Zurich in Laxe, the Tira do Cordel in Finisterre or the Loliña Restaurant in Villagarcía de Arosa, among others.
The Resturant of As Garzas Shelter (which also has four rooms) is located in front of the cliffs of the Barizo area, in a privileged environment of A Costa Da Morte. It is one of the best restaurants in Galicia, with high quality products (rice with lobster, octopus croquettes ...) and has recently been awarded 1 Michelin star.
In addition, it has been able to adapt to the times evolving into a more modern kitchen combined with the traditional cuisine based on fish and shellfish extracted from one of the best coasts of the product. !! Galicia Calidade !!
After several "fights" with Gloria we got a taxi to take us to our destination (to be able to hit the wine). It is located in Barizo, a few km from Malpica and our accommodation in Ardeleiro.
!!! AHHHHHHHH !!!, an important notice, to enter As Garzas, it is preferable to bring "at least" some pants on ... (directed for the one that is taken for granted)
The menu of both cooking and wine is extensive. It includes a very tempting tasting menu, which is why we finally decided to choose: WINE, seafood soup, monkfish tartlet with shrimp, WINE, fish, dessert, MORE WINE, coffee and "digestive" (approx 60 EUROS per person) ... and someone's tongue like a rag, haha ...
The next day, before leaving this area of A Costa Da Morte, one feels the need to stop for a while again to contemplate again the brave Atlantic Ocean that especially plagues this part of the Galician coast in winter.
A LITTLE HISTORY: A Costa Da Morte contains dark stories of the Holy Company, hidden treasures, the lobishome, apparitions, witchcraft and curses. There are also many legends of bandits, of dark nights and storms, of the furious sea swallowing and wrecking the most enormous shippers.
It is said that Camelle was a possible Viking base during the Middle Ages, where they created a village of new cultures and strange forms, one of the few coastal settlements that all ships feared, since the view from the ocean of terrible waves and the strong winds contrasted with the view from the green fields above the cliffs of landscapes of incomparable beauty where the horizon is lost in the infinity in the immensity of the ocean.
The route takes us to Laxe, a charming town, especially in summer, and with another important fish market in Galicia.
We parked the car in the port area, where today there is no low fleet day, but nevertheless there is a particular fondness of fishing for the most locals (and not so locals)
Tourism has arrived in Laxe not long ago, especially because of the claim of its appetizing beach that surrounds the entire town, its excellent gastronomy of a fishing port (and where we would take the opportunity to snack before returning) Google Photos Images
There is no true story of A Costa Da Morte. Legends of Vikings, Normans, Turks, Dutch, English and French who made raids and fell into these waters. What we do know is that make a gastronomic route through this particular area of Galicia, full of roads at 50 km / h and fishing villages, far from other more affordable areas, It is a rewarding experience that we will repeat soon ... very soon (Muros, Cee, Muxia and Camariñas !! next goal !!) and sure, as on this occasion, in the best company ...
Raquel, Jose, Paula and Isaac, photo of As Garzas
ESCAPE EXPENSES: € 120.00 approx. per person