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Pulemelei Mound, the cradle of Polynesia

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In the most remote of the uncontrollable jungle of Savai'i in Samoa, almost completely hidden, the largest and oldest structure of Polynesia is hidden, a pyramid about 12 meters high left by the world to its forgetfulness. We rediscoveredPulemelei Mound on a trip to the origins of Polynesia.


Samoa, in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, is composed of two large islands and other small uninhabited. The island of Upolu it also houses its capital, Apia, as well as the only International Airport. Savai'i however, it is accessible by sea and we reached it on August 10, 2012

Savai'i, the "soul" of Samoa

Unlike many of its neighboring islands, the Samoa archipelago is born volcanically and not coral. Its intense green, great waterfalls, rocky areas, white sand beaches and coconut trees, make them one of the most beautiful of all we met in our adventure through the South Seas.


Savai'i , However, It is the island of greatest contrasts. Larger than Upolu, and with a maximum altitude of 1,858 m (mt. Silisili) its active volcano had its last eruption in 1911 leaving the sad memory in the huge lava fields in Saleaula which are shown as uninhabitable areas in an interior area of ​​lush vegetation. On the other side of the island the fearsome Matavanu has also left its mark, although here creating strange geological formations in its descent to the sea, the so-called blowholes, creating waterfalls of up to 20 meters above our heads



But on an already enigmatic island, there was a fact that especially appealed to us. Archaeological surveys between 1977 and 1978 carried out by Gregory Jackmond they recorded the largest stone platforms and fences, roads and dirt furnaces in all of Polynesia whose date dated to the same prehistory, breaking all theories about the origins of Polynesia.


We wanted to get there, although everything was more complicated than we could foresee at the beginning

Pulemelei Mound, the cradle of Polynesia

They count the most studious that of the origins of the Polynesians and melanesians they still have many secrets to discover and that clarifying it is certainly complex. Some scientists talk about colonizers from Indonesia and Southeast Asia (and by traits it can be a good explanation for Melanesia and Micronesia), others about migratory movements from South America. However, there is a characteristic in their common language (which reveres their ancestors) that suggests many different origins.



Be that as it may, our original plan had failedWe had hired a person who turned out to have no idea of ​​anything. Badly advised, and therefore poorly prepared to move through the jungle, we managed to make ourselves understood before the "chiefs" of a town close to the supposed old access to the area that housed the discovery. After a talk and a small bribe, we had new equipment. Two robust Samoan men with machetes made their way He was somewhere.



At present there is no hint of what could have been an access to this area. The journey becomes hard and crosses rivers, borders geological formations and mounds scale. In the absence of a path, everything goes.


A small sign cheers us up. We are in the last meters of what should have been a parking area.Pulemelei was abandoned to his fate... !! literally eaten by the jungle !!



In 2002, through two ceramics found, the prehistoric age of the mound was made public, although it was in 2007 when archaeologists Dr. Clark, and Drs. Wallin unveiled the secret of Pulemelei's ovens, some pieces where the root of a plant was cooked at high temperatures making it edible for ritual ceremonies


Nature prevents seeing clearly but intuits the so-called old mound Tia Seua pyramid built in basalt with base of 65x60 meters and height of 12 meters oriented almost perfectly with the cardinal directions at right angles



We are also at a privileged height of the island, from where you can observe any approach to the nearby boat, which suggests that it had some kind of strategic use.


We are not aware. We are in the cradle of Polynesia, on the oldest vestiges found in an area of ​​the planet of difficult communication at present and almost impossible many centuries ago. The irrefutable proof of the existence of human life on a small island in a remote area where archaeologists are still baffled about the reason for its construction.



It is possible that over the years we know more about places like this or like the Tongatapu Triliton that we look back (and it is believed that it had astronomical observatory functions but whose unique piece is unknown as it could be transferred) as the secrets of ancient Egypt, pre-Inca cultures or other legacies that our ancestors left for us have been known. While, The Pyramid of Pulemelei Mound is like that adventure that we already have with love in this traveling logbook


Isaac and Paula, from Pulemelei Mound

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