Kibale Forest National Park


We thought these days, already 20 traveling, what is the magic of Africa that you love so much ?. It is possible that magic resides in the incredible beauty of being able to admire wild animals in true freedom, in their habitat. Or perhaps the heart of magic lies in its traditional still virgin life, its customs, its ability to invoke its gods and its magical rituals. Or it may be its history, its music or a compendium of everything. Today we have a long way to think as we enter another part of black Africa, we are in Kibale Forest.

Possibly the most touching scenes of a journey through Uganda, not even their beautiful landscapes, whose orange road crosses through the green vegetation, or their diverse fauna of mammals, birds or insects ... the most touching scenes are those children who with that smile they give you and that "how are you? how aree youuu? " while waving with their hands they leave behind the seriousness of the large populations, and make forget (at least for a moment) a life of agriculture and livestock, small wooden houses and poverty, much poverty. There is no money here. Barter remains the currency of exchange. Even to get married you have to pay cows in return.

We have risen a lot to be the first to cross the ferry, after checking out and paying for a laundry of what the lizard soap would no longer do anything effective (20,000 UGX) and we have achieved it. In return, nature gives us more images that only Africa can give you and that the memory will bring us back for a long time. Are those hippos we have just eaten and returned to the water just 5 meters from us. and that beautiful sunrise, the most beautiful that we have seen in 20 days of travel

The ferry begins to circulate at 7'00, with the first rays of light. Before it would be very dangerous, due to the absence of light and the amount of hippopotamus out of the water. !! Luckily we arrived yesterday by the hairs!

We have a long journey, more than 300 km, which in Spain would be ebtre 2 and 3 hours, today the road has nothing to do with the paved road that will take us to the gates of Murchison and we expect that it will not take us less than 10 hours.

However, the trip leaves us really spectacular places. As we begin to climb, we can see Lake Albert and the lands of R.D. Congo in the distance

Lake Albert offers the locals another way of life. Fishing and other activities made it possible to complete the basic needs of a poor, Ugandan population, but without water for their crops

The rain of the night makes the almost entirely clayey roads, are in some places in very bad conditions. The contrast of its orange color with the intense green that surrounds us is something we have not seen before anywhere in the world and possibly one of the icons of this country that we will take with us. As well as kidney pain ... !! neither Ruth nor Isaac who fall asleep on a stone can do it here!

We are struck by the species of cows that are in this western part of the country (in fact they only exist in this area). Are cows of the ancient Kingdom of Ankole, characterized by its huge horns and because its price can cost up to 700,000 UGX. In fact, the president himself is known as the peasant because he owns a lot of them. They also take advantage of everything, give milk, give meat and take advantage of their leather and horns.

In Uganda, guides and drivers, unlike in Kenya, do not sleep in our accommodation. They leave us and look for more modest ones, which sometimes become adobe houses like those used by the local population. !! How we wish we could spend a night in them!

Motorcycles and bicycles sometimes make impromptu transportation of firewood. The women will make the land or carry huge drums of something similar to drums to bring water from the stream in perfect balance. A bit of firewood is a brazier more than enough to heat a good meal or to get fire and make that house more cozy to spend the night. Yuka crops, matokes, tea. Barefoot, always barefoot ... and more children, who quickly go on the road to greet these "muzungus" with their hands (white although Ruth and Isaac do not look like it) being happy to shake our hands or give them some candy. This is priceless. None that we can put.

We haven't talked about our transportation yet. Since we left Kampala our "convertible for safaris" van It's something like this ...

Oh no! Not that one!! Hahaha. The MATOKARRO is a small 6-seater van in which we are part of our life. To have, we have even common spaces where we have the kitchen (that vacuum sausage that comes from Spain, that feels good ...), the office and warehouse (where we keep the gifts), the cyber (where we publish the stories of the day) and even the picnic, hahaha

The team is formed, in addition to us, Norman. that remains a person's charm, and Ali, our fast-driver

In one of the multiple paraditas that we do along the way (We stop where we see something that catches our attention), Ali takes the opportunity to approach a workshop to see a noise from the fan and we to have that morning tea. The girls access the back looking for the "toilets" and ... let's say they find them. A hole in the ground directly connected to the septic tank and an unbearable smell that makes it inevitable to hold your breath that well deserve a video that we will put around

Another stop is to eat, next to the road, while the locals admire us missed

But where we couldn't stop stopping is in he !! HILTON HOTEL!! Hahaha, we must recognize that people throw a lot of imagination. Of course, the bar had all kinds of Uganda rums. We will have to try them. For now we take some waters (3000 UGX)

They go almost 9 hours on the road when we pass Fort Portal, almost a small town after everything we've encountered. From here we have 1 hour to Kibale. We also take the opportunity to read some history of this complex conglomerate of kingdoms. What if Buganda, Bunyoro, Ankole, Toro ... until the English arrived and signed treaties with all of them already in full colonial expansionism of 1890. And it is that as in Kenya, Uganda was under British influence during the African colonization of the end of 19th century until the uprisings broke out under the direction of Musazi in 1949 and a long period of instability will lead to independence in 1963. However, this did not achieve the necessary stability and Uganda had until now state coups, invasion of troops of Tanzania and guerrilla forces. Since 1996, the first elections brought Museveni to power ... and in 2011 we continued with him with a fraudulent March election this year.

We enter a different world of hills, tea plantations and monkeys ... many monkeys. We are in a forest that looks more like a jungle of 770 km2 called Kibale Forest

... and the first to receive us (and see that there are more than 12 species of monkey) are the baboons of those who do not get rid of

We continue to enter, and more and more ... until a moment when the vegetation eats up the road itself. We have reached the Primate Lodge, a kind of country house located in the middle of the tropical forest where staying is a real wonder.

As we arrived They give us a 2-story cabin, and a kind of tented camp in the deepest part of the forest (it even takes several minutes to walk from reception and has nothing but nature around, propinilla for the 5000 UGX backpacks). Sleeping with the sounds of the jungle, enjoying a good "cold shower" (haha) will be another experience in itself

The little camp It is full of authentic trails to explore. If we could, we would be here for days. And although we will go for the search for a specific monkey, here you can find Colobos, Baboons, Red-Tailed Monkeys, Silver Monkeys, etc ...

We have already had dinner (8,500 UGX). Tomorrow we expect a trek in search of an animal that has features and behaviors very similar to us (to some more than another), the CHIMPANCÉ, but that and how we enter the jungle is an adventure for tomorrow

Paula, Ruth, Juve and Isaac, from Kibale Forest (Uganda)

EXPENSES OF THE DAY: 36,500 UGX (approx. 9.43 EUR)